A Climber’s Podcast | In-depth conversations with climbers, coaches, and experts about how to become better climbers.
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A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.
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Kris Hampton and Paul Corsaro from Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning discuss the research and studies that may or may not be applicable to the climbing world.
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Sendtember Podcast Ep 1: "what it takes to win a game"
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Welcome to episode 1 of the Sendtember Podcast. We're kicking off this 4 part series with the foundations of 5.12 climbing. We discuss - physical metrics of climbers who are redpointing 5.12 and beyond - how to be more intentional with the time you have outside (so you can actually improve) Stay tuned for episode 2, where we'll be digging into the …
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BUILDER | Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg Are Pushing Their Sport Climbing Limits
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Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional tr…
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MOVIE NIGHT | Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top
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Kris and Nate decide on their favorite movie theater candy and then watch Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top, released by Mammut. They discuss the film and the takeaways from it that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Film Credits: Yucca Films Online Climbing Films from the 1990s More Movie Night episodes ___________________…
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Ep 64: The difference between running + climbing nutrition, pre-race fueling
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If you're a climber who likes running, this one is for you. Pull up to learn about the differences between nutrition for running and climbing, and come along as Caitlin gets Lauren prepped for her first ever trail race! IMPORTANT NOTES: 1. Lauren misspoke in the episode. The distance of her race was 11K / 6.8 miles (you can check out the course det…
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MOVIE NIGHT | Passion (featuring Jonathan Siegrist)
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Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. The Lil Yachty Walk …
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As we move into the fall climbing season, you might notice that a few of your outdoor skills are a little rusty. And we bet you're forgetting about this skill in particular: your nutrition. So stick around for three important reminders from your friendly, neighborhood, outdoor-focused nutrition specialist. This is the nutrition pre-game speech you …
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EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Melissa Ruiz on Training with a Neurological Disorder
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Today's episode, which comes to us from Every Body Climbs, features Melissa Ruiz. Melissa has been climbing and competing for about 6 years. She’s got a collection of medals to her name, including five gold, from national and world paraclimbing championships/cups. But recently she's started climbing outside, and to put it lightly, she is stoked. So…
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Ep 63: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement with Kris Hampton
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The way we've all been learned about climbing movement feels a little bit like the way you earn badges in the Girl Scouts. You learn a new trick here, add a heel hook there, working on not stamping your feet around and pivoting on your toes - and on and on. The problem? It's all disjointed. Like we're stuffing things into a bag of tricks instead of…
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Using gamification to improve your outdoor climbing
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What if you could take what you love about board games... and apply that to your outdoor climbing? In this episode we're teaching you how to gamify your climbing pursuits to make them more fun - and make getting out of your comfort zone feel like a cool challenge instead of a training chore. Sign up here to receive the special edition, private podc…
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TAPED TIPS | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill
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Of all of the elements of climbing movement, Rhythm is the most overlooked. What's more, it's often the reason we fall, even if it appears to be something different. Learn how to spot when Rhythm is a problem and how you can get better at making sure Rhythm isn't holding you back. Read the rest on the blog! Watch the video on YouTube! Check out The…
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MOVIE NIGHT | Takeaways from In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering
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Kris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell Editor David Fitzgerald Director of Photography Eric Bissell Executive Producers A…
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MOVIE NIGHT | Takeaways from Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi
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Kris and Nate sit down to watch the new climbing film Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi, and then discuss the film itself, as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Three years ago, Simon Lorenzi climbed the first ascent of the second 9a boulder in the world. This is that story. Produced, directed, fil…
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Ep 62: 8 negative thought patterns that are stifling your training progress
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You know that rude voice in your head that talks shit about you sometimes? Yeah, us too. So in this episode, we're guiding you through eight common thought patterns that are hindering your progress in climbing. And p.s. these thought patterns are making your training suck a lot more than it needs to. Let's form some new patterns, shall we? IMPORTAN…
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How to train in a "quirky" climbing gym.
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"Quirky" (read: kinda bad). Every gym can't be a perfect, peaceful training oasis. Sometimes you have to work with what you have - so in this week's episode, we're giving your our top three tips for getting your training done, no matter how "quirky" your gym may be. NOTE: BOGO Sale is running August 23-30! Sign up for Lauren's Consistency Challenge…
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Ravioli Biceps and Nate Drolet | The Parallels Between Climbing and Video Games
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Nate and Ravioli Biceps have been friends for more than 15 years, since long before Ravioli became the reigning king of the Moonboard. In this conversation, they discuss the myriad of lessons they pull from video gaming that can help inform our life and climbing. Get some Ravioli Biceps merch. Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram and YouTube. Find Nate…
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Body Composition for Climbers, Caitlin's feature on the Power Company Climbing Podcast
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This week we're digging into the archives and sharing Caitlin's interview on the Power Company Podcast. Caitlin and Kris discuss: Why changing body composition doesn't always mean weight loss The long-term and short-term risks of being undernourished as an athlete. What BMI really means, and why we should throw it out the window. Why bodyweight rea…
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A Better Framework for Assessing and Improving Climbing Movement and Technique
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Improving climbing movement is challenging. Understanding what you most need to improve is even more challenging. The discussions around climbing technique have always been either extremely abstract or specific to a single move on a single climb. It doesn't have to be that way. Check out the new course and movement evaluation tool: The Atomic Eleme…
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How to stress-proof your climbing trip, what Caitlin learned in Lander, WY
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We've been on quite a few climbing trips in our day and we've experienced the good, the bad, and the ugly. There's been drama, illness, tents getting destroyed in the wind - you name it. In this episode we're sharing our tips for having a stress-free climbing trip (and how to maximize FUN). If your climbing trips have ever been less than enjoyable,…
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Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber
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Allyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community. Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025, this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover …
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EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Fallon Rowe on Learning Mental Gymnastics So Our Bodies Can Climb
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Fallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She’s spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching. In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their exper…
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Ep 61: Should you count calories? Pros, cons and our thoughts on intuitive eating
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The phrase "calories in, calories out" gets tossed around like a hacky sack at springtime on a college campus. But is it really that simple? Or is there more to it? And is the practice of tracking your food intake or "calorie counting" good for you? Or is it an obsessive behavior associated with disordered eating habits? Should you ever do it? Or a…
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How to do a Sunday training reset, "Planning is HOT"
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In this episode we're taking you through the process that Lauren uses each week to plan her training and the methods she uses with her athletes as well. She takes you through the weekly reflection + planning process that will help you - feel less stressed about fitting your training into your life - get more training sessions done (and have them be…
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Ep 60: How to crush at being a short climber with Juliet Hammer, CSCS
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Is being a short climber harder? Or are short climbers making it up? This week, we're joined by special guest Juliet Hammer, CSCS to discuss all that and more. Juliet is a certified badass, a climbing coach, and has climbed more double digit boulders than we care to count. From taking home hardware at outdoor bouldering competitions like the Triple…
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Three tips that will change the way you climb slopers
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If you've ever made a self deprecating joke about how you try to full crimp slopers, this episode is for you. Sloper tip video www.loom.com/share/afa8ee9c14854f54b113e4f577edd381?sid=f585837d-3c97-4244-957a-da3d066c1c07 Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goods…
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Ep 59: Mastering the art of crag snacking, nutrient timing for outdoor climbing
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The way you eat can make or break your outdoor climbing day. In this episode, we're explaining the nutrition strategies that will help you have high energy, enjoyable days at the crag. If you're done with crashing three routes in, this episode is for you. RESOURCES: Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map Sign up fo…
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If you've ever thought to yourself, "damn it feels like I can climb all the V3s in my gym SO FAST, but as soon as I step up to a V4 or V5 I can't even do a single move", this episode is for you. Spoiler alert: what you THINK is your problem, probably isn't what you need to focus on. RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goo…
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BOARD MEETINGS | Our Favorite Effective Finger Strength Protocols
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There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER Y…
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Episode 58: Is salt bad for you? "tasty, magic crystals"
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"That has way too much sodium!" "Can you believe how much salt is in that?" If you've ever been to a family gathering in America, you know that SOMEONE is complaining about how they've got to watch their sodium intake. But is it really that bad for you? And don't we need salt to stay hydrated? If you feel dazed and confused about salt - you aren't …
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FOCUS Q&A 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks
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Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1, if you ha…
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SB: the problem with "earning" your food ft. Caitlin making enemies
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Caitlin goes to war with a yoga studio and the girls discuss why she did it. MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track Get the free ROCK MAP course now! https://www.caitlinholmes.com/rock-map IMPORTANT LINKS: 1. Send Lauren an email and get a sticker for submit…
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TAPED TIPS | 5 Simple Ways to Climb Harder
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You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices. And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you j…
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BONUS: What does a climbing coach do [behind the scenes]
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BONUS TIME. Whether you're a coach looking for some pointers or an athlete who's curious about what it looks like to work with a professional coach, this episode is for you. Get the behind the scenes on what goes into training with me on a Good Spray Custom Plan. Custom plan enrollment opens May 20, 2024 www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans Email …
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Ep 57: Good vs. great training and nutrition, "from 'meh' to kickass!"
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The great news about pursuing excellence in your training and nutrition? "Great" doesn't have to mean complicated or time consuming. If you're ready to take your training and nutrition from "just ok" to totally awesome, strap in, we're about to tell you how to do just that. Learn about Good Spray Custom Plans: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/customplans …
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FOCUS Q&A 1: Climbing Movement Principles, Skill vs. Strength, and How to Evaluate
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Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon! Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratt…
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SB: Top 3 time management pitfalls of busy climbers
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Having an awesome training program to follow is great, but you won't get much in the way of results if you don't actually do it. And that's where time management comes in. So you can ✅ get to the gym when you say you're going to ✅ have the energy to FOCUS when you show up to train In this episode, we're reviewing common time management pitfalls tha…
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Training Q&A: tackling fear on lead, comp style climbing, and balancing multiple hobbies
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Answering YOUR listener questions. We're covering - a quick + dirty strategy to work through a fear of lead climbing - ramping back into climbing post-ski season - combining climbing + running - getting into bouldering as a sport climber and more! MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Video - training as a multi-sport athlete https://youtu.…
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Ep 55: What climbers get wrong about power
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Power is one of the most misunderstood training concepts in climbing. And in this episode we're breaking down - the movement skills climbers confuse for a power deficit - the difference between strength and power - how to avoid common power development pitfalls If you've ever complained about your power or contact strength - this episode is for you…
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TAPED TIPS | How To Climb Taller AND Smaller
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Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time. Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this …
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Ep 56: What to do when you aren't improving, "use facts not vibes"
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In this episode we're covering - the difference between FEELING like you're plateaued and actually being in one - the low hanging fruit you might be missing if you truly aren't making progress despite your best efforts MEGABETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com RESOURCES: Sign up for the FREE Fast Track Movement Course www.goodsprayclimbing.com/fast-track G…
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REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
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Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. …
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EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Ben Mayforth on Discipline, Paraclimbing World Championships, and Letting Go
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Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he’s recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impa…
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Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show
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Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a. They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more. This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over …
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EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing
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Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing. He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises fed…
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TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
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Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move? If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout. But it’s possible you’re looking in the wrong direction entirely... Read the rest on the blo…
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Nutrition Q&A: Collagen, Creatine, and How long to "bulk"
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We love serving up answers to your questions, so tune in for some listener nutrition Q&A. In this episode, we discuss: - the truth about collagen research - what a bulking phase is, and how long you can reasonably do it for - the need-to-knows of leveraging creatine supplementation MEGA BETA BAG: www.getmegabeta.com IMPORTANT LINKS + RESOURCES: Get…
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Ep 54: Does your nutrition approach feel fuzzy? "It's time for a vibe check"
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For something as simple as eating, the amount of conflicting (and scientifically unfounded) advice out there is astounding. In a quick Google search, you could find 5001 things in your diet that are "going to kill you" or "give you cancer" or "make you fat". On this podcast, we like to cut through that noise. And Caitlin has TWO amazing new resourc…
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(BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool
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Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that mi…
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SNACK BREAK: How to *actually* help your friend who just started climbing
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If you have a friend who just started climbing, you probably want to help them out. You want to give them pointers and teach them what you wish you'd have known when YOU started climbing. But sometimes, the "help" you're giving is actually hindering their learning. So in this episode we're giving you our top tips for being the best climbing mentor …
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BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions
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Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she’s worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has recently been supplementing that with private movement sessions with Nate Drolet. In this episode, we…
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TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing
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For most of us, climbing looks like this: Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell. Pull on again, try the move again, fall off. Again You get it. You've been there. But there’s a better way. In this episod…
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