Episode #56- Erik Murdock

The Climbing Advocate

On today’s episode, Erik Murdock returns to take a deep dive into an issue that Access Fund and the climbing community have worked on for decades: how fixed anchors are managed in Wilderness areas. It’s an issue that requires context, history, and nuance, which is what this episode delivers. Erik begins with a thorough history of climbing in America’s Wilderness areas, then we get into the finer details of why managing fixed anchors in these places is a big deal right now. As Erik explains, recently released guidance from the National Park Service and US Forest Service will have serious implications if implemented. Join us for a deep dive into this issue, and submit your comment to the NPS and USFS on their management guidance before January 30th here. 5:12- The early conversations around wilderness - are fixed anchors allowable or prohibited? 8:28- Erik's opening on fixed anchors and wilderness 27:04- Why are fixed anchors being managed now? 30:42- Managing fixed anchors outside of wilderness 41:13- Climbers supporting past wilderness designations 51:23- Protect America's Rock Climbing (PARC) Act 59:26- Minimum Requirements Analysis (MRA) in more depth 1:04:35- Will fixed hardware be removed from existing routes? 1:09:27- Where do we go from here? Wilderness Climbing FAQ: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/wilderness-climbing-faq Bolt Prohibition Action Alert: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/action-alert-stop-the-bolt-prohibition National Park Service Comment Submission Form (due by Jan 30th, 2024): https://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?documentID=132387 US Forest Service Comment Submission Form (due by Jan 30th, 2024): https://cara.fs2c.usda.gov/Public/CommentInput?project=ORMS-3524