Ep. 199 - Eric Desmarais and Alexandra Nowell of CLS Farms

Drink Beer, Think Beer With John Holl

Out to Washington this week for an update on the 2023 Hop Crop and to hear how the timing of the harvest impacts flavor and aroma. Eric Desmarais and Alexandra Nowell of CLS Farm in Yakima is here to share their insight.

Mid-September means the hop harvest is in full swing in the Pacific Northewest, and to get insight on what is happening with the harvest I’m so pleased to be joined by Eric Desmarais, the 4th generation owner of CLS Farms in Yakima and Alexandra Nowell the technical brewing advisor to the farm.

They’ve been busy taking stock of all that’s happening amid the acres and running sensory and talking with brewers. They’ve also been looking at the calendar and taking stock on the aromas and flavors that the hops present when they are picked.

It’s something that gets a good amount of attention these days.

Earlier this year they hosted a seminar titled "Finding the Edges: The Intersection of Art and Science Hop Picking Windows," and were joined by Tom Nielsen of Sierra Nevada, and Stephanie Conn of VGF Farms.

The seminar explored the diversity of hop aromas that can develop based on when a variety is harvested and in this conversation they will share details on that and what they have additionally learned this season.

How does harvest time impact the flavor of the hops? One example that CLS found that harvesting El Dorado towards the end of September brings out its tropical and candy aromas whereas early harvested El Dorado has more citrus and melon character.

It’s a fascinating subject and science.